Menu Please click on a link to take you to each page. General Care Personality/Habits Lifespan Nail & Teeth trimming Baths Introduction/Fighting Quarantine Colors & Markings Sexing info Pre-Breeding info Pregnancy Info Baby Info Health Tips Eyes Mycoplasma Pneumonia Temperature Bugs Veterinary Care Abscesses & Tumors Bumblefoot Sprained ankles/Torn toenails Wounds Degloving/Tail injury Aggression Ears Megacolon Barbering Old Age Please click on a picture to take you to each page 80stoysale.com HOME Menu Please click on a link to take you to each page. General Care Personality/Habits Lifespan Nail & Teeth trimming Baths Introduction/Fighting Quarantine Colors & Markings Sexing info Pre-Breeding info Pregnancy Info Baby Info Health Tips Eyes Mycoplasma Pneumonia Temperature Bugs Veterinary Care Abscesses & Tumors Bumblefoot Sprained ankles/Torn toenails Wounds Degloving/Tail injury Aggression Ears Megacolon Barbering Old Age Please click on a picture to take you to each page 80stoysale.com HOME Menu Please click on a link to take you to each page. General Care Personality/Habits Lifespan Nail & Teeth trimming Baths Introduction/Fighting Quarantine Colors & Markings Sexing info Pre-Breeding info Pregnancy Info Baby Info Health Tips Eyes Mycoplasma Pneumonia Temperature Bugs Veterinary Care Abscesses & Tumors Bumblefoot Sprained ankles/Torn toenails Wounds Degloving/Tail injury Aggression Ears Megacolon Barbering Old Age Please click on a picture to take you to each page 80stoysale.com HOME |
Chaska, MN 30 minutes from Minneapolis I am a USDA licensed small animal breedery located in Chaska, MN. Chaska is a Southwest Suburb about 30 minutes from Minneapolis. My love for rodents started over 20 years ago when I acquired my first rat. I fell in love with how fun, loving and intelligent rats are and it started my passion for all rodents. In 24 years I have never been without rats and hope to never be! At First, I acquired my rats from Pet stores and they had tumors, Mycoplasma issues, incurred enormous medical bills and didn't live over 2 years old. I sought out a breeder who I began working for and she mentored me on rat and other animal breeding. She was the first one to bring Blue, Hairless and Dumbo rats into our state. After several years I took over the breeding on my own and have been concentrating on breeding for health, temperament and longevity. She worked on these bloodlines for 15 years and now I have worked on them for over 15 yrs. I specialize in breeding for health, temperament and longevity. I keep Track of all parents, babies, litter and health information for every rat. Rats are very social, loving intelligent friends. I have found a lot of us who love rats are those who are considered the outcasts, freaks or are against the norm and i think that is why i love rats so much, as I am viewed as a little odd. I Enjoy adopting out my critters to rat lovers of all types. I strive to provide a Family Friendly, safe, low stress environment for those looking for their new family member/pet. I love sharing rat knowledge! :) I breed Fancy rats, Fancy mice, Guinea pigs, Egyptian Spiny Mice, African soft Fur rats, Degus, Hedgehogs, Gerbils, Syrian hamsters and Roborovski Dwarf hamsters. I find placing animals in loving forever homes very rewarding. I Enjoy interacting with other rat lovers and receiving pictures and updates periodically on the adopted critters. I am trying to get the healthiest rats with the longest lifespans I can! Having healthy pets makes having them a lot more enjoyable! My Ratties are bred for Pet quality. My goal is to place rats in forever loving homes! I believe rats or any animal should be adopted for the personality and compatibility with you! I prefer adopters come and meet the rats and find who likes you and not pick one out by a photo or on color alone. Sometimes the "prettiest" one isn't the one who would be the best fit. I have Dumbo eared and regular eared rats. I have hairless, rexes and normal coats. The rats come in many different patterns such as hooded, non hooded, Dalmatians, Berkshire, Self etc. Colors produced are Blue, Russian blue, Agouti blue, Silver blue, Apricot, Agouti, Black, White, Chocolate, Siamese, Fawn/Tan, Chocolate, Cinnamon, Dalmatian and more! My Rats are pet quality, which means they are bred to be healthy pets. Rats need to be in pairs or more! Rats are very social and can get very lonely and depressed without a buddy of their same species around. Rats enjoy wrestling, playing and cuddling together. I will not adopt out a solo rat, unless you own rats already. Rats are addictive! Once you fall in love with them, you will want more and more! The rat community calls it GGMR -Gotta Get more rats Syndrome. :) Blue dots * in front help identify males, and red dots * in front help identify Females. All terms used to describe ratties are generalized generic terms, others (rat organizations) may refer to them differently or with a more in depth title. I try to list them with terms that everyone can understand, as some of the more in depth descriptions/colors can be confusing for those who aren't familiar. ****I usually have more ratties available then listed -sometimes pictures don't turn out or i am behind on updates.**** *Black Patchwork Dumbo Born 7/24/24 *Black Rex Dumbo Born 8/27/24 *Russian Blue Patchwork Dumbo Born 9/13/24 *Black Hooded Blaze Patchwork Dumbo Born 9/13/24 *Hairless with black spot on back Dumbo Born 9/28/24 *Chocolate Patchwork Dumbo Born 10/14/24 *Black Hooded Rex Dumbo Born 11/1/24 *Russian blue Hooded Blze Rex Dumbo Born 11/1/24 *Black Hooded with head spot Rex Dumbo Born 11/1/24 *Russian Blue Hairless Dumbo Born 11/1/24 *Black Hooded Rex Dumbo Born 11/1/24 *Black Blaze Rex Dumbo Born 11/14/24 *Agouti Born 11/14/24 *Chocolate Hooded with head spot Born 11/14/24 *Chocolate Hooded with head spot Born 11/14/24 *Dark eyed White Born 11/14/24 ********************************************************************************** *Chocolate Rex Dumbo *Tan Hooded with head spot Hairless Dumbo Born 9/15/24 *Black Hooded Blaze Patchwork Dumbo Born 10/17/24 *Tan With dark eyes Double rex Dumbo Born 10/17/24 *White with black on neck Dumbo Born 11/1/24 There are many different bedding options available. It's really up to your personal preference on what will work best for you, but some bedding are unsafe and can cause health issues.. No matter the bedding it should be changed frequently as ammonia from urine can burn or cause respiratory issues for you and the rats. Laid down newspaper with shredded paper from a shredder or from ripping into strips on top works very well as bedding and contains very little dust. All newspaper inks are by law made with vegetable or soy inks and are safe. The dull newspaper is what you want to use. The shiny advertisements don't absorb urine well. Pro: Cheap (or Free), easy to change and use. Low amount of dust. Grocery ads, city pages, phone book pages and dull (Not shiny) junk mail can all be used flat or shredded. Con: Doesn't contain the urine smell for long periods of time and needs to be changed frequently. There are many different types available. Pro: Safe and easy to clean. Con: Avoid any with odor fighting chemicals added.(IE: Baking soda) Can be expensive. Avoid Aspen with a strong odor or excess dust in the package. You want to ensure the bedding is Kiln dried which almost all beddings are. Aspen comes in a variety of cuts. Pro: Absorbs smell. Aspen wood dust is considered safe. (not considered a carcinogen like other wood dust.) Con: Top layer can appear clean when the lower layers are soiled. Can be dusty. Pine bedding is dangerous! It has harmful Phenols and Abietic acid in it that burn little rattie lungs causing scarring and many respiratory issues. There are some that believe Pine is safe if it is Kiln dried. Typical Kiln drying removes water (moisture) but it is not heated to a high enough temperature to remove all or a significant amount of the harmful phenol oils. Pine can cause scabs and scarring on the rats lungs and tracheal sloughing. A rat housed on pine for even a short period of time can result in Respiratory health issues and/or Mycoplasma flare ups for the rest of their life as a result. There are studies stating Pine is the best bedding to use to control ammonia, this is due to the strong phenols combating the ammonia odor which is taking one odor to cover up another. However that has nothing to do with respiratory safety as Pine can cause many breathing difficulties for animals and humans. Pro: Absorbs Ammonia Con: Harmful Phenols. Harmful Abietic acid. Dusty. Labeled a carcinogen. Cancer warnings. Wood dust is classified as a known carcinogen that can cause asthma, conjunctivitis and severe respiratory distress and many Pine bedding have a warning on them stating this. Many humans have breathing issues such as respiratory distress, coughing and asthma when around Pine. Cedar should never be used for any animal. Pro: Mites and some small pests don't seem to infest cedar. Cons: Cedar contains Plicatic acid that burns lungs and is known for causing respiratory issues in both humans and animals. Wood dust is classified as a known carcinogen and can exacerbate Asthma, Rhinitis, Conjunctivitis and cause cancer. Cedar can cause breathing issues for animals and humans. Pro: Good for nesting and urine absorption, low odor. Cons: Can be dusty. Can be dangerous if animals eat it as it can cause blockages in the intestinal tract. Blockages occur when the bedding is accidentally consumed and expands from liquid that is in the digestive system. Do to the density of the bedding the stomach acids can't break it down fast enough before it passes into the intestinal tract. Many don't realize the dangers as you would need to have a Necropsy performed to be able to diagnose what the blockage is made of. so, commonly sudden death occurs and you are unsure the actual cause of death. Rats are smart so they tend to spit out the bedding and not consume very much but it is a risk. The bedding is much more dangerous for hamsters and guinea pigs who aren't quite as intelligent to distinguish it is not food. Pro: Easily rolled up and removed. Reusable. Cons: Fleece is treated with water resistant chemicals which will cause the urine to run off and not be absorbed. To remove the chemicals on the fleece,referred to as wicking you can wash the fleece a few times to remove the wicking chemicals before use. Some wash with vinegar to help remove the wicking. Fleece can trap ammonia from urine very quickly which could cause respiratory issues if not changed every frequently. Fancy patterns on the fleece could hide blood or poryphrin mucus stains which could delay you recognizing a health issue right away. Fleece, towels (be aware of strings that nails could get stuck on), shirts, pant legs, scarves, stocking caps, blankets and fabric work well for hammocks that the ratties can sleep on. In the winter i typically throw a piece of fleece or old t shirt into the cage so the rats have the option to snuggle with it, if they are cold or want to hide in it. There are many rat foods available but not all of them are the best quality or appropriate for good rat health. Avoid rat foods that contain Alfalfa pellets as rats do not like them and can not digest them well. Avoid rat foods with small millet bird seeds. They are very small and are difficult for the ratties to grab and eat. Rats probably would enjoy eating them if they were able to pick them up. Avoid foods with dyes or colorful food pieces as dyes can affect their digestion/Stools. Rat food options include: Mazuri Lab blocks: Lab blocks are used commonly in laboratories and by "Feeder" breeders who want their rats to be of a certain similar uniform size. And to ensure a consistent diet for testing. Lab blocks can be difficult for small babies or elderly rats to get a hold of and nibble on due to their larger size. Some pet stores and department stores sell blocks that contain Molasses, which is sugar and too much sugar is not good for overall rat health. Oxbow pellet food: Oxbow is commonly recommended in the rat community. Oxbow is a pellet food. Many rats fed Oxbow tend to have foul smelling feces and a strong cage odor is a common complaint. Seed Mix foods: There are numerous brands of seed mixes available on the market. Look for food labeled for rats (or mice) and not for a variety of animals (not Hamsters and gerbils). Tiny Farm Friends Reggie rat is an acceptable food. Kaytee foods and treats are not known for being healthy but most are suitable for the occasional treats. Homemade Seed Mixes: Many people prefer to mix their food in bulk to save money and due to the quantity of animals they may have to feed. Homemade food mixes can offer a variety of foods that rats enjoy. There is some prejudice against seed mix diets by those who want to feed a consistent diet to maintain average size requirements for rats that may be used as feeders or in research. Many Misconceptions and false truths on seed mix diets. There is a rumor that corn is not ok for rats. When asked why it is not safe they reference that dried corn could contain mold if not dried properly. My rebuttal to that is any food can get moldy. The mold probability is higher in cheaper lower quality pre packaged store bought seed mixes. The cheaper the brand of food, typically the cheaper the quality of food quality. Corn is completely edible and safe to rats -they have been eating corn on farms for centuries.. Scratch grains/Hen scratch/Chicken feed contains corn crumble pieces and oats is a good alternative to use instead of the larger cracked corn or whole kernels. The smaller corn pieces found in Scratch grains are more likely to be dried thoroughly due to their smaller size. Farmers would not tolerate feeding moldy food because of the health issues that could occur to their Chickens and other livestock. I have found the Scratch grains to always be of good quality and completely dried. Sunflower seeds: Sunflower seeds are common to be mixed or found in seed mixes. There are two main types of Sunflower seeds. Black and white sunflower seeds and black oil sunflower seeds. Black oil sunflower seeds are all black, smaller in size, meatier seeds and contain more natural oil. Black and white Sunflower seeds are black and white, larger in size and not as nutritious. Black and white sunflower seeds are the same type humans typically eat. Be cautious when feeding them to rats, as many are covered in salt which should be avoided. There is a difference between animal food seeds and human food seeds. Generally the difference is size and the pet food seeds have not been washed. I like to use egg noodles but veggie pasta and curlier pasta is ok to use as well. Oats are known for helping calm aggression and temperament issues. *It is a good idea to examine any type of food before feeding, to check for mold, bugs or other contaminants. I mix up my own food mix diet and my rats do very well on it. I typically also feed my rats something from dinner everyday. They enjoy pasta with tomato sauce, bread, cereal, vegetables and some fruits. Rats can have meat such as beef or chicken. Some don’t seem to enjoy beef very much. Most really enjoy chicken. All meat products should be cooked and not fed raw. Uneaten leftovers should be cleaned out of the cage quickly as they could begin to rot and decay. Rats can eat almost anything you will eat! Foods unhealthy for you, such as oily, greasy, salty and sugary foods should be avoided or fed in very limited moderation. Sometimes one rat in the pack will test the food and then not all of them will. As time passes your rat will learn to trust you and may refrain from testing foods as often. The testing of their food has been a great survival tool for wild rats and makes it difficult to poison them. My Rat Food Mix: I mix my food in a plastic bin container with a lid which helps keep it fresh and protect from bugs and from the ratties stealing and stashing it. I mix equal parts of Black oil Sunflower seeds and Scratch grains (Corn and oats) then I mix in about 10% Malt-O-Meal Honey Nut Spooners (Generic Cheerios), Malt-O-Meal Puffed wheat, Malt-O-Meal Oat clusters or other healthier not overly sugary cereal. I also add in about 10% dried pasta (Which is good for their teeth) ( I use a variety of dried pasta and typically use a different type every time I mix up a new batch of food) I also mix in dried oats/oatmeal and unsalted nuts on occasion. Oats and oatmeal are great to feed to ratties with upset tummies/runny stools to help keep them regular. I feed 1 to 5 pieces of Purina Little Bites/Purina small dog Dog food per rat a day. Dog food provides a good source of extra protein especially for pregnant and nursing mothers. I also feed them some sort of human food on a daily basis. (IE: leftovers from lunch and dinner) Most rats enjoy Mashed potatoes, peas, corn, pasta, anything with tomato sauce, breads, cereals and just about anything you would eat! Please remember if it is junk food for you, it is junk food for your rats, feed "junk food" in moderation. Please email DiscoPanth@gmail.com with questions, if you are interested in adopting and to set up appts. All rats are to be picked up and chosen at my location. I will not meet, ship or deliver. I am Located in Chaska, MN. We set up a Date and time that works for both of us and you come see if you like any of the ratties and if they like you! :) I do not reserve rats based on color. All ratties should be picked by who responds to you and interacts with you, not based on color alone. Interacting with the rats helps ensure you pick the ones that are a good fit for you and them. All rats have different personalities. If you are new to rats please use my other ratties pages to learn all about them! Rats do best in same sex pairs! I will not adopt out a single rat, unless you have other rats already. Rats need to be in pairs! Young rats will typically get along with all other rats, they just want a friend. Sometimes older rats who have never had friends (Pet store rats) don't like friends and introductions can be difficult. Rats are very social and thrive when they have at least one friend. Rats can become very lonely and depressed if they do not have at least one friend. Having a human companion is not the same as having a friend of their own species. Rats need a buddy to play and cuddle with when you are at work, school or just not at home. It is my personal policy to not adopt out any rats (Or other animals) to anyone who uses pine bedding as i feel it is very harmful to animals and human health as i have seen many respiratory issues caused by it. All rats are $18 a piece All Adoption fees are to be paid in Cash, Paypal or Cashapp. Most of my Rats become available for adoption at 4 weeks old. Most available ratties are under 3 months old. Large (over 4 months old) or Retired rats (over a year old) are sometimes discounted in price to help them find good homes! Rats do best in same sex pairs or groups! Rats feel more comfortable when they have at least one other rattie around. Rats can become very lonely if they do not have another rat friend. Having two or more ensures they have a friend to play with when you are unable to be home. I encourage adopters to adopt 2 or more ratties at a time! Please note Females are typically smaller than males and can slip in and out of large cage bar spacing easily. Females and baby rats should have 1/4 inch or less cage bar spacing. Females typically are quite active and want to run and play all the time. Females will run by and say hi, While males are more likely to sit with you. Males can be quite active when young but as they age they get lazier and are more likely to sit and hang out with you.. Just because the rat or any animal is the color you like does not mean it is the best fit for you. Ratties should be picked out by whose personality is compatible with yours. Examples: If you are laid back you may want a laid back rattie, if you are very active, Females may be a better fit. I try to have ratties available all the time. Please bring a small box, tote or animal carrier if you have one with you at the time of adoption. After an Appointment time is set up, I give adopters my address and phone number. Once we have an Appointment time set up, it is set for the time I am expecting you to arrive. Please if you are canceling or running late please call me or send me a text letting me know as soon as you can so i know you are on your way. All Adoption fees are to be paid in cash or Via Paypal at adoption appointment. Animal keeper travel carriers are available to purchase to bring your new fur kids home in. I have 2 types of Keeper travel carriers, that vary depending on where i can order them from at the time. These Keepers are made of plastic and are the large size. They come in a variety of lid color options. They are $22 each. Please like our page and feel free to post photos and updates on your adopted critters! Disco's Critters Email: DiscoPanth@gmail.com |